Filcani šešir itrađen od vune bojadisane prirodnim bojilima ekstrahiranim iz Dactylopius coccus

master's thesis

• Author: Marija Leš
• Mentor: Ana Sutlović (mentor)
• Committee member: Ana Sutlović (predsjednik povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Snježana Vego (član povjerenstva)
• Committee member: Martinia Ira Glogar (član povjerenstva)
• Granter: University of Zagreb; Faculty of Textile Technology; (Department of Textile Chemistry and Ecology); Zagreb
• Defense date and country: 2017-09-26, Croatia
• Scientific / art field, discipline and subdiscipline: TECHNICAL SCIENCES; Textile Technology; Textile Chemistry

Abstract

Prirodno košenil bojilo ţivotinjskog podrijetla ekstrahirano iz Dactylopius coccus ispitano je i iskorišteno u svrhu bojadisanja vune za izradu filcanog šešira. Definirana je boja kao psihofizički doţivljaj i uvjeti koji su potrebni da bi se ostvario doţivljaj boje. Opisano je čime se bavi metrika boja i što točno ona podrazumijeva u sustavu vrednovanja boja, tko je prvi put uveo ocjenjivanje kvalitete i dimenzije boje u samo tri pogleda. Definira se pojam bojila i njihova primjena, podjela bojila na prirodna i umjetna, te podjela prirodnih bojila prema podrijetlu u tri kategorije. Pojmovi bojila purpurnog i grimiznog tona dobivenih od štitastih ušiju Dactylopius coccus i morskog puţa volka Hexaplex trunculus, objašnjeni su njihovim podrijetlom, definiranjem njihove vrste, načinima uzgoja i dobivanja bojila iz tih ţivotinjskih vrsta te samom upotrebom i načinom korištenja tih bojila. Definira se sam pojam i korijen riječi "grimiz" i "purpur" te njihove različitosti i sličnosti u značenju. Navode se glavne karakteristike vune kao tekstilnog vlakna te se kroz morfološku graĎu vunenog vlakna objašnjava zašto je to vlakno drugačije od drugih i kako se ponaša u procesu filcanja. Opisuje se tehnika filcanja kao drevna vještina za koju moţemo reći da spada i pod hrvatsku baštinu, jer svoje korijene vuče iz prošlosti kada su se odjevni predmeti isključivo radili od vune. Temeljito je opisana tehnika izrade zračne čipke, koja je sama po sebi vrlo jednostavna, ali zahtjevnog karaktera koji iziskuje mnogo vremena i truda. U ovom slučaju svoje je mjesto zračna čipka pronašla kao dekorativni dodatak na filcanom šeširu. Šeširi su uvijek imali svoje značenje i definirali su status osoba u društvu, tako da se u teoretskom dijelu ovog rada govori i o ulozi šešira kroz povijest. Prirodno košenil bojilo i vuna kao tekstilni materijal obraĎeni su u procesu bojadisanja s predobradom metalnim solima. Opisan je postupak predobrade metalnim solima i postupak bojadisanja vune. Navedeni su procesni parametri i instrumenti i ureĎaji kojima se provodio eksperimentalni dio koji je potkrijepljen usporedbom dobivenih rezultata. Radi jasnijeg poimanja razlike u obojenjima priloţena je karta boja s obraĎenim vunenim uzorcima te fotografije gotovog filcanog šešira koji uključuje sve segmente koji su razraĎeni u ovom radu.

Abstract (english)

Natural cochineal dye of animal origin extracted from Dactylopius coccus was tested and used for the purpose of dyeing wool used to make a felt hat. Colour is defined as a psychophysical experience and conditions necessary to achieve the experience of colour are specified. The field of colour metrics is described as well as its meaning within the system of evaluation of colour, who was the first to introduce the assessment of quality and dimension of colour on the basis of three categories. The concept of dye and its uses are defined. Dyes are catgorized as natural and synthetic and natural dyes are classified according to origin in three categories. The terms for dyes of purple and crimson tones derived from cochineal bugs Dactylopius coccus and species Hexaplex trunculus are explained on the basis of their origin, definition of the animal species they are derived from, ways of cultivation of those animal species and methods of obtaining dyes from them as well as the use of dyes and their application methods. The meaning and the roots of the words "crimson" and "purple" are defined as well as the differences and similarities in meaning. Main characteristics of wool as a textile fibre are specified, as well as its specificities compared to other types of fibre and its behaviour in the felting process. Felting techniques are described as an ancient skills that can be regarded as part of the Croatian cultural heritage because it was used in times when clothing was made exclusively from wool. The technique of making air lace is described in detail. Although in itself very simple, the technique is nevertheless fairly demanding and requires a lot of time and effort. In this case air lace was used as a decorative addition to the felt hat. Hats have always had a special meaning in defining the status of a person within a society. The theoretical part of this paper provides an overview of the role of hats through history. Natural cochineal dye and wool as textile material were treated here within the dyeing process which was preceded by treatment with metal salts. The description is given of both the pre-treatment with metal salts and the wool dyeing process. The paper lists the process parameters and the instruments and devices used in the experimental part which is substantiated by the comparison of the results obtained. For a clearer understanding of the differences in the results of dyeing, the colour map of treated wool samples and the photographs of the finished felt hat including all the elements elaborated in this paper are provided.

• Keywords: Prirodna bojila; košenil; bojadisanje; Dactylopius coccus; grimiz
• Keywords (english): natural dyes; cochineal; dyeing; Dactylopius coccus; crimson
• Language: croatian
• URN:NBN: urn:nbn:hr:201:318365
• Study programme: Title: Textile Technology and Engineering; specializations in: Clothing Engineering, Textile Design and Management, Industrial Textile Design, Industrial Clothing Design, Textile Chemistry, Materials and Ecology; Course: Industrial Textile Design; Study programme type: university; Study level: graduate; Academic / professional title: magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilne tehnologije i inženjerstva (magistar/magistra inženjer/inženjerka tekstilne tehnologije i inženjerstva)
• Type of resource: Text
• File origin: Born digital
• Access conditions: Open access
• Repository: Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb - Digital Repository
• Created on: 2017-10-13 06:31:29